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Medium Tramp - Queens Birthday by Michael Lightbourne photos by Duncan Groenewald
At Queens Birthday weekend in 2005, I went on an Easy tramp led by Helen McDermott to the Kaweka Hot Pools. It was such a good tramp that when the same destination was planned for this Queens Birthday weekend, I simply had to return. Except this time I offered to lead the Medium tramp, which also included a visit to Ballard Hut. So on Friday night we gathered at the Railway Station, except for Bryony who was nowhere to be seen. We rang her home phone number, and was told she had definitely departed, so at 5.45pm two of us searched the whole Railway Station for her. It was nearly 6pm when we found her rushing towards Platform 9. Apparently she had been sitting at a bus stop in Miramar for an hour and the bus just didn't come. Finally on the road, to pick up Suzi in Waikanae. It was very quick to Paraparaumu, with no traffic delays at all. However, strangely, it was very slow going between Paraparaumu and Waikanae. We had a good range of dinner options in Levin, and then carried on in our 11seater van through the Manawatu Gorge and onto State Highway 2. We reached the edge of Napier, then turned north-west onto the smaller roads towards the Kaweka Forest Park. I drove all the way, a pretty good achievement I thought, and we arrived at the road end shortly after midnight.
We discovered on Saturday morning that the map is misleading. It shows the track starting between two fords on Makahu Road, but there is a confusing DOC sign signaling the start of the track 300 metres further on. I assumed this was the other track marked on the map, further up Makahu Road, also leading to Middle Hill Hut, but which is a much longer track. Then a couple of the locals drove up and informed us that the section of the track over farmland was closed because the farmer had problems with missing cattle. A very short distance further up the road we discovered the Carpark for Middle Hill Hut. The track has been redirected into the boundary of the Forest Park, and rejoins the old track that follows the ridge, past the farmland. Anyway, progress was good and we arrived at Middle Hill Hut before lunch. The Hut is in a nice setting in shrubland in the lower hills of the Kaweka Range. We carried on up towards the high point of our tramp, Whetu at 1650 metres. The weather was reasonable, and we got some good views. After Whetu we carried on round the tops towards Ballard Hut. There was an impressive variety of little alpine plants, similar to parts of the Ruahine ranges. The approach to Ballard Hut, and its setting, is one of the nicest I’ve ever experienced. You drop down to the Hut, which sits just on the bushline, next to beech trees struggling to survive on steep loose rock. The Hut is extremely small, with only 4 beds, and it was fortunate no one else showed up, because it wouldn’t have taken more than our number!
On Sunday the moderate Southerly had arrived and it was quite cold. We had to climb back up to Whetu, and visibility on this day was much more limited. However we soon dropped back into the bush, heading to Makino Hut. Here we met the Easy party out on a day trip, and we all had some lunch. Bronwyn’s Easy group was I think stronger than our Easy party of two years before, when only 3 of us came up the very steep track to Makino Hut on the Sunday. After lunch we headed directly for the Hot Pools! A long hot soak was interrupted only by the need to get out and make some dinner. After dinner most of our groups sat around the campfire (we had all pitched flys next to the hotpools). But I returned for a further Soak, and sitting there by candlelight, watching the candles illuminate the steam rising from the pools, I was in heaven! Monday was the best weather day, and it was a pleasant walk along a flattish track following the Mohaka River. We finished the tramp at lunchtime, and I handed over the driving to Duncan. I was impressed with Andrew Trembath's efforts two years ago, when he drove the bus both ways, all the way. Mind you, he did spend a lot of time soaking in the pools between the drives, to recover! And finally, to whoever is Chief Guide in 2009, if the Kaweka hotpools happen to be re-scheduled at Queens Birthday weekend, I'm sure I would be able to assist again with trip-leading duties ...