This text was read by OCR from a scanned newsletter and has not been proofread yet, so expect odd characters and mistakes.
By "Pooh" (Andrew McLellan, Scribe) & "Christopher Robin" (Jo McKenzie) - "Pooh Expotitions" Our poor grasp of Spanish had us leaving at either 7.00 or 7.30 in the morning by minibus to Torres de! Paine National Park - a challenge without an alarm clock. Fearful of a WT&MC departure policy we arrived early, crammed in a small van with 9 other gringos and set out on unsealed roads for 140 km at breakneck speed peering through the grill on the front windscreen - images of Mad Max flashing before my eyes. Our first real glimpse of the Torres area was breathtaking; an enormous conglomeration of peaks plopped in otherwise flat surroundings. The usual compulsory photo-stops at a reflecting lake presented us with views of flamingos in the distance and flashes of nandu (emu) and guanacos (ilama relatives). After paying our NZ$20 entry fee and reluctantly handing over our passports, the PE (Pooh Expotition) trip headed off in beautifully fine weather towards the magnetic sight of the Torres spires themselves, having decided to do the popular 7 - 10 day grand circuit. It's strange being in a National Park and walking along vehicle tracks through grazing land - somewhat monotonous, but once at the base of the hills the surroundings are more natural-like. A short detour by moi to investigate the wrong side of the river gorge up to the Torres lookout followed, then it was up through increasingly more pleasant bush to a campsite below the glacial moraine below the Torres. The campsite has a semi-permanent nature about it as climbing parties have set up rock, wood and plastic shacks for shelter and a large group of English climbers were "living" there at the time. A short scramble up over the moraine brings you to the famous Torres lookout. Words are inappropriate in describing this view, many of you would have seen photos of the three spires of pink granite - but to be there looking at them close-up with the just as equally impressive surrounding peaks, glacier/icefall and lake was "choice"! It warranted a photo visit again the next morning too.
Day 2 involved a somewhat tedious backtrack and sidle around the base of the hills through more grazing land. There is virtually no bush left in this part of the park and the only wildlife is of the bovine variety. The highlights of the day included lunch (of course), a small horseshoe lake en route and crossing over into Lago Paine with good views of the Dickson Valley ahead.
Day 3 was once again very much the same sort of countryside with more swamps, derelict farm huts and some more regenerating bush before climbing up onto a small ridge running along the side of Lago Dickson, a glacial lake fed by Ventisquero Dickson which was now prominent descending from high up the valley at the head of the lake. Small icebergs bobbed up and down in the lake while some washed ashore. Our guidebook spoke of a route around the lake to explore the glacier close-up but with numerous ice-cold river crossings. increasing rain and a "we're on holiday" attitude, we opted for a half day rest in the tent instead. Besides we had the "pass" (1200m) to climb the next day. We gave 2 Aussie friends some cooking lessons WT&MC style - they enviously nibbled at their packet noodles.
The 4th day promised heaps and delivered! We had an easy wander up Rio Paine which feeds into Lago Dickson through some very dense, rich bush, with calafate bushes offering berries for sampling. The weather was beginning to clear and we were afforded great views of snow sprinkled tops above and the lake below. It was a surprisingly mild climb past a smail thundering river ravine and then a crossing below the semi-circular moraine of Lago Perros, a small glacial lake fed by a small but very steep icefall. While we watched, a rock/icefall rattled and roared down the glacier face disturbing the otherwise tranquil iceberg-spotted lake. After lunch, we wandered up through marshy slopes with decreasing bush cover until we reached the upper basin of the Rio Paine. Up ahead the pass was obvious from a trail of orange painted rocks and to the right, another icefall/glacier appeared below a sunfilled valley.
There was great unity shown in the push to the top through the only bit of snow we could find, to be treated with the most splendid views of Ventisquero Grey. an enormous glacier 5km wide and 20km long choking a valley surrounded by peaks cloaked in snow and ice. Beyond we were fortunate to catch a glimpse of the Southern Icecap with its incredible range of hues of blue, gnarly-looking tongues and slots and crevasses running on for miles. We stopped for a photostop and then headed off for the steep descent to the campsite after sidling along the edge of the glacier through more bush.
All the campsites in the Park are only in official sites otherwise you will be fined US$6 and relocated (physically!) As a result the sites are heavily used, stripped of ground cover and litter ridden. It's a bit of ashame but itis one way of controlling damage in such a heavily visited area. It rained overnight and into the 5th day but we eventually reached a late decision to move on to the toe of the glacier to Refugio Grey. A recent fire has devastated the area around the campsite and that of a lower campsite and it makes for unpleasant travel despite improved views of the glacier. We were faced by the daunting prospect of two rather scary river/waterfall crossings because of overnight rain before reaching the lookout points at the base of the glacier. There were even closer views possible at this point with spectacular carved out caves at the snout of the icy giant. We camped near the recently replaced Refugio Grey, a Raleigh International Project - complete with dirt floor and blocked chimney. Like many huts in the park, it was missing some of its interior fittings because of a firewood shortage and arunning joke has it that the previous Refugio Grey was razed by a group of over-enthusiastic (or very cold) Israelis. The wind always seems to pick up at night, is generally warm at first but by morning its stronger, colder and wet! For us this meant a tailwind but for a large group of daytrippers coming up the valley for a look at the by-now clagged in glacier, it was a bitterly cold blast of rain in the face.
Some interesting rock bluffs surrounded the route out with an attractive lake to gaze at before a slushy stream descent to the windswept Refugio Pehoe. We spent the rest of the day sheltering from the rain, playing cards, eating and firetending as a series of daytrippers returned sodden but still surprisingly chirpy, to await their boat across the lake. We decided.to_spend the night inside - despite the risk of rodents, because of a broken tentpole. We lay awake during a windy, rattly night listening to the mice scurrying around and gnawing. The morning damage report was conducted and we found that our food was untouched but our bike waterbottles had been gnawed through and our jacket toggles sampled.
Our last day dawned windy but clear affording us great views of the emerald Lago Pehoe and as we made our way further along, we caught views of the Paine Grande and the Cuerno, the destination for our aborted side trip. The majority of the walk out was on flat, grazing land with the only consolation being the splendid views of the peaks we had just circumnavigated. With fantasies of a pancake feast on our return to Pt Natales we clambered into our minivan for an interesting return journey in which our driver managed to rear-end the only other vehicle on the road XS)
out of the park. Much handwaving and talking later, we moved on, reclaiming our passports on the way. Our accompanying minivan overheated and the attempts to tow it saw the rope snapping thus we were late back into town and the only shop that was still open didn't have pancakes onthe menu, just instant porridge so we consumed copious servings anyway.
All in all, a successful expotition to the South Pole, or at least very close to it! Until next time, Happy Tramping!!